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Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Peru!

Ok so I'm a little late posting on Peru, but better late than never, right? Sharleen, Michelle and I had an amazing trip to Peru. It was definitely one of the highlights of living in South America so far. We spent about 2 days in Lima and spent 3 1/2 days in Cusco, including 1 day at Machu Piccu. I took a mountain of pictures which you can see here, but I figured I would keep this post relatively short. Shar, you're going to have to fact check me here to make sure I named all of the places correctly!

First thing Sunday morning, we took a tour of Lima. It was really interesting to travel through the city as it's very different from Buenos Aires. I was struck by the amount and quality of European architecture in Lima. I'd always heard that Buenos Aires is the most "European" city in South America, but from an architecture perspective, I think Lima takes the cake.



This is La Catedral de Lima. Apparently it's the second largest in Latin America, second to the National Cathedral in Mexico DF.





Us in the Plaza de Armas in front of La Catedral de Lima.



Such cool architecture! This is the Museum and Church of San Francisco. We toured the church and then went down into the catacombs! This is the second time in a year that I've been able to see catacombs. They are so cool, but with the earthquake that happened about a month ago in Peru, there were one to many "final resting place" jokes for my liking while we were down there.

So after our city tour, we headed back to the hotel because we had a veeery early flight to Cusco the next morning. Now I was a little terrified about getting to Cusco because it's a city that sits 11,500 feet above sea level. And for all of you who remember my experience at Sundance Film Festival two years ago, I was really afraid I was going to get altitude sickness. In the end, we all suffered from some headaches and Shar and I did not sleep the first night, but other than that, it was ok. This is thanks, in large part, to mate de coca!



This is a delicious tea brewed from leaves of the coca plant. No, it is not liquid cocaine by any stretch. I was told that you would have to drink 700 cups of mate de coca to even get a little bit of the effect of cocaine. Coca tea does, however, keep you hydrated which is the number one way to avoid altitude sickness.



Our beautiful hotel in Cusco, Hotel Munay Wasi.



Cusco is a beautiful town filled with different cultural and religious influences. You can easily identify Jesuit and Franciscan churches, but many of them were actually constructed on Inca holy sites. There are subtle Inca references in a lot of the religious art in Cusco as well.



Main square in Cusco-- you can see the mountains in the background.



Basilica of Cusco-- apparently it's the third largest in Latin America, to Lima and Mexico DF.



Me and Shar Shar in the main square.



Yes, it's touristy, but I couldn't help myself!



We spent a lot of time in a neighborhood called San Blas, which is the artistic/cultural heart of the city. It actually reminded me of Bellagio in Italy a little bit because of the steep, cobble stoned streets, and the impressive views. Needless to say, Cusco is not nearly as clean as Italy, but it did have some similarities.



View of the main square in San Blas.

The next day, we took a tour of Cusco and the surrounding ruins. This is us at the Saqsaywaman site, the Inca House of the Sun.





View from the ruins. They had a giant condor standing on a rock in the center of the ruins, and I did take some pictures of it. The whole thing seemed a little off to me, so I decided not to post the pictures of the condor here. You can see them in my Picasa web album if you want.

After seeing the House of the Sun, we headed to see Q'enqo, the Inca temple dedicated to Mother Earth, a site where the Inca performed religious sacrifices. It's mostly a natural rock formation and Shar and I took a picture on the path actually toward the ritual site.



Finally, we hiked our way up to 13,100 feet to see Tambomachay, the baths where the Inca worshiped water.



For more information on ruins around Cusco, check out this site.



Cusco at night. I thought this was such a beautiful picture. The next day, we were off super early to catch the Peru Rail train to Machu Piccu.





The train had these great skylights which made it even easier to see the incredible landscape outside of Cusco.



I took about a billion pictures of the countryside, which you can see in my web album.

After the 4-hour train ride and a 25-minute bus ride of switchbacks, we made it to Machu Piccu. This place is truly one of the most spiritual and breathtaking sites I have ever seen.





We were immediately picked up by a tour which took us around the ruins for two hours.



I took about a million pictures of the ruins as well, which you can see in the web album.



After we'd finished with the tour, the three of us felt like we needed a little more time, so we sat down on the terraced steps and just took the place in. We must have spent about a half an hour just talking and reflecting. That was my single most favorite moment of the trip.





The black and white feature, one of the many things Shar taught me about my camera :)

Final thoughts on Peru:
1) The food is absolutely amazing! We had most of our meals in little hole-in-the-wall places that cost 50 cents for a two-course meal and a drink. It was one of the best ways that we connected with the local culture. As Sharleen is ever the culinary adventurer, I even tried llama meat, guinea pig, and octopus.
2) Peru is a stunning country, and I feel like I only hit the tip of the iceberg. There are so many other places I want to go-- Lake Titicaca, the Amazon jungle, the coast, etc.
3) Machu Piccu is seriously worth the trip. They're having issues with the number of tourists traveling into the park each day, so they might be cracking down on admission in the future. However, if you can find a way to go, as long as it is officially and responsibly, it is SO worth the trip :)

Alright, so much for my short post, but there was so much to talk about. I'm heading to Rio de Janeiro on Saturday so look for new pictures soon!

Rosario, Argentina

Most of Sharleen and Michelle's family is from Rosario, so I spent some time with them up there. They showed me around and I got to meet a ton of their family. There's also a significant memory museum in Rosario, so I was able to get some research done as well. To see my entire Rosario album, click here. These are some of the highlights from the trip:





El Monumento de la Bandera (Monument to the Argentine flag)



Rosario is an absolutely beautiful city that sits along the Parana River. There are miles of promenade where the city has been refurbishing old train buildings and turning them into restaurants and cultural spaces. We had absolutely beautiful weather the entire time we were there.





Memory Museum in Rosario.





This building is currently a restaurant called Rockenfeller's, but during the dictatorship, it functioned as the headquarters for the 2nd Provincial Unit of the Argentine army. This is the building that will be turned into the permanent memory space in Rosario as soon as it is turned over the Memory Commission.



Us with Shar's cousin at a family dinner.



The last night, we went to another family's house for dinner which was so much fun. We ended up going out with the cousins, Matias and Lucas, later that night and had a blast.



People go out SO late here-- I think it was about 1:30am when this picture was taken. We were just starting!



I love this picture :)



Club!



I'm pretty sure this is one of Lucas' friends that we ran into.

Rosario was an absolute blast!

Sunday, September 9, 2007

El Basilisco Art Show

I have not posted in a while, mainly because I've been doing so many things! This will be the first of three posts in chronological order.

While Sharleen and Michelle were here, we paid a visit to Expanish, a foreign exchange program that Michelle is planning to do next year. There we met Sarah, a transplanted Bay Area native. She and I chatted about my research and later that week, she invited me to an art show for two artists-in-residence of El Basilisco. It just so happened that one of those artists, Seth Wulsin, was someone I really wanted to get in touch with. I'd read about his Project, 16 Tons, and wanted to learn more. Needless to say, the art show was great. Here are a few pictures of Seth's latest project:









When we spoke at his show, he said he's planning to place these octagonal structures in places around the city-- he'll bury some, suspend some in the air, and will even put a few out to sea. His vision is so unique that it was a lot of fun to talk to him. As if that wasn't enough, we talked a little bit about 16 Tons. I told him I'd love to see the project and he mentioned that there was only one level of windows left from the project. I asked him if I could go out there with him to see at least part of the project before it was completely destroyed. Here are a few pictures of what's left:





I'm hoping to talk to Seth more when he gets back from the U.S. because he mentioned he might start on a documentary film of people associated with the Caseros prison, including people who were held there during the dictatorship. It would be great to work with him on the film if that's the direction of the film he decides to go in.